Зимнее путешествие в Болгарию. Часть 16.
Начало смотри здесь.
В четырех километрах к северо-востоку от Велико-Тырново находится уникальное село Арбанаси, куда обязательно стоит заглянуть, если вдруг окажетесь в Велико-Тырново. Это древнее средневековое село сохранилось до наших дней практически в аутентичном виде и сейчас является ценнейшим архитектурным памятником Болгарии. Кроме того, оно располагается в исключительно красивом месте на высокогорном плато вот за этими холмами, что окружают Асенову махалу, и там открываются просто потрясающие виды на окрестности.
В Арбанаси на сегодняшний день проживает более трех сотен жителей, но, тем не менее, село объявлено архитектурно-историческим заповедником и, по сути, представляет собой музей под открытым небом. Из 80 сохранившихся домов 36 являются национальными памятниками культуры.
Село было основано в XV веке албанцами, которых турецкие власти выселили сюда из юго-западных Балкан из-за их частых восстаний. Отсюда и название села — Арбанаси. Так в средневековье называли албанцев.
В середине XVI века село стало собственностью великого визиря Османской империи Рустем паши, а затем, после его смерти, перешло в руки его наследникам. Это спасло село от разорительных налогов, которые взимались тогда Османской империей со всех остальных болгарских поселений. Жители Арбанаси имели возможность спокойно заниматься ремеслами и торговлей и даже получили привилегию беспошлинно торговать своими товарами по всей территории империи. Село в те времена процветало.
Зажиточные селяне строили себе большущие дома, не скупясь на отделку и внутреннее убранство. Именно эти уникальные шедевры болгарского зодчества сейчас и являются основной достопримечательностью Арбанаси.
Дома стоились как неприступные крепости. Видимо, нелегкие времена обязывали. Они надежно укреплялись мощными стенами, массивными окованными дверьми и прочными решетками на окнах. Такие дома-крепости не имени веранд и балконов, зато имели обширные подвалы, скрытые лестницы и тайники. Они были полностью приспособлены для автономного проживания в случае возникшей необходимости.
В тот же период в Арбанаси было построено пять церквей и два монастыря, которые тоже стали национальным достоянием.
Оставила свой след в Арбанаси и коммунистическая эпоха. Высокогорное живописное плато облюбовал в свое время первый секретарь ЦК компартии Болгарии Тодор Живков. В 1975 году на самом высоком месте здесь выросла его очередная резиденция. Оказывается, в его распоряжении было 30 резиденций. Они были разбросаны по всей Болгарии. Разумеется, по лучшим ее местам. 21 из них построили в течение его 25-летнего правления.
Пускай вас не смущает комплекс возвышающихся над ним зданий, которые видны на фото левее резиденции. При Тодоре Живкове этих зданий не было. Кто бы им позволил так близко подступиться, а тем более возвысится. Эти здания современных отелей появились здесь не так давно. Собственно и бывшая резиденция сейчас тоже функционирует как отель.
Мы не видели других резиденций Тодора Живкова, но для этой, которая находится здесь, безусловно, было выбрано изумительно красивое место.
Что называется, — над облаками. Только бескрайняя даль да вершины холмов. И город где-то внизу. А здесь только площадка для вертолетов. Наверное, сюда садились и те вертолеты, которые доставляли стареющему генсеку омолаживающий мурсальский чай с Родопских гор.
И с каждого окошка дворца,
с каждой его открытой террасы такие вот потрясающие виды!
Завораживающе… Я бы здесь пожила.
А город внизу — это Велико-Тырново.
Попасть в Арбанаси достаточно просто, даже если вы не на машине. Каждые 30-40 минут из Велико-Тырново до Горна-Оряховицы отправляются маршрутные такси, по дороге они заезжают в Арбанаси. Можно доехать и на обычном такси, так даже лучше, — быстрее и комфортнее. И стоимость невысокая, — всего лишь 7 левов, если ехать из центра Велико-Тырново. Если же отправляться туда из Асеновой махала, через которую проходит дорога, и того меньше, — около пяти левов. 1 лев=26 руб.
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