ПНОМПЕНЬ
На перекрестке с небольшой площадью, где набережная Сисоват раздваивается, давая начало бульвару Сотерос, непрерывный ряд европейских колониальных домов внезапно обрывается и открывается прекрасный вид на ажурные строения в буддийском стиле
Это храмовый комплекс Ват Оуналом (храм Брови), главный буддийский центр страны, один из старейших храмов в Пномпене, основанный в XV веке. Здесь находится резиденция Патриарха, монастырь и школа буддизма.
Название храму дала священная реликвия — волос из брови самого Будды, которая хранится в специальной ступе за зданием главной пагоды.
Главная пагода в своем первоначальном виде, к сожалению, не сохранилась. Красные кхмеры, объявившие войну всем религиям, разрушили ее почти до основания (знакомо, да?). После падения их режима пагода была отстроена заново.
Пагода открыта для посещений. Можно пройти по ее галереям и обогнув здание, осмотреть задний дворик,
охраняемый каменными стражниками. Где-то здесь должна быть и “та самая» ступа.
Еще один каменный стражник охраняет покой кхмера, уснувшего прямо у центральных ворот. Странно, где же его гамак?
Мы тоже отдохнули бы здесь, в приятной прохладе дворика с его многочисленными растениями, цветами, деревьями и статуями. Посидели бы, — так здесь хорошо. Но в храм мы зашли ненадолго, еще многое нужно успеть и мы выходим за ворота,
выпадая прямо на обрадовавшегося возможной удаче тукера. Не повезло. Ехать нам никуда не нужно. Королевский дворец, куда мы направляемся, совсем рядом. Пройдемся.
Колоритное колониальное здание слева.
А справа начинается Королевский дворец, и мы уже видим величественное здание с традиционными кхмерскими формами, с четырьмя фасадами смотрящими на все стороны света и конусообразным шпилем. Это павильон Чан Чайа или ”Тень Луны”. Его главный фасад с балконом выходит на площадь, а сам павильон находится на территории дворца, за желтой, каменной стеной.
Верхняя часть павильона полностью открыта и похожа на беседку. Теплыми южными вечерами, при таинственном свете луны, проникающем внутрь павильона, когда-то здесь проводились представления кхмерского королевского балета. В наше время павильон служит трибуной для принятия парадов и обращения монархов к своему народу, собирающемуся на дворцовой площади.
Сейчас на балконе павильона, на том месте, где обычно выступают кхмерские монархи, установлен траурный портрет бывшего короля Сианука. Он скончался еще в октябре прошлого года и только недавно, в начале февраля, спустя три месяца после смерти, был кремирован и захоронен. Видимо, траур еще не закончился, портреты пока не убраны.
Король был достаточно неоднозначной фигурой. Лавируя между «вашими» и «нашими», он, похоже, думал только о личной власти. Иначе чем еще можно объяснить его сотрудничество с красными кхмерами? Идеей национального примирения? Ради этой идеи он прикрывал их злодеяния своей фигурой?
Чем можно объяснить решение отдать свою территорию под военные базы Вьетнама? Симпатиями к коммунистическим идеям? Подавляя, при этом, левые движения в собственной стране? Или благом для народа от полученных взамен выгодных продаж риса, и заботой о нем? Ради этого “блага” он закрывал глаза на то, что вьетнамская война переползла на земли Камбоджи и на гибель собственного, ни в чем не повинного народа? Или не закрывал?
Теряя власть и снова к ней возвращаясь, Сианук смог продержаться в большой политике 73 (!) года. Без четверти век он корпел над своей страной и народом, «заботясь» о ее благополучии, а когда силы стали уже не те, покинул свое детище и уехал жить в более благополучные Корею и Китай. В Китае он и умер.
Несмотря на все это, кхмеры искренне считают, что Сианук заботился о них. Они почитают своего короля и любят. А, может быть, прощают?
Королевский дворец огражден внушительными стенами и занимает немалую территорию.
Дворец строился дважды. Впервые, в 1434 году при короле Понья Ята, решившем тогда обосновать здесь новую столицу государства,
затем в 1866 году при непосредственной помощи французов, когда Камбоджа находилась уже под их протекторатом.
Почти вся территория дворца открыта для посещений, доступа нет только в резиденцию короля, оно и понятно. Вход на территорию платный, — 6,5$.
У входа забавная обезьянка .
И строгая пропускная система. Одежда должна закрывать руки и ноги. Шарфики, наброшенные на плечи, одеждой не считаются. При этом особых проблем туристам никто не устраивает. Тут же, у кассы, вместе с билетом продается и соответствующая требованиям одежда. Правда, только одного размера…56-го. Ну и ладно, и на том спасибо.
Такую футболочку я и прикупила. Беленькую, безразмерную… Надела ее поверх своей одежды и в 30-градусную жару бодрым шагом отправилась знакомиться с королевскими строениями.
Тронный зал.
Красивейшее здание крестообразной формы с традиционными четырьмя фасадами, с заостренными крышами и шпилями. Главный, самый большой шпиль увенчан четырехликим Брахмой, смотрящим на четыре стороны света.
Зал служит для проведения придворных церемоний и принятия королевских гостей.
К сожалению, внутрь зайти нельзя, но прогуляться по галереям вокруг зала и заглянуть в окна не возбраняется.
Справа, за стеной с воротами, видна резиденция кхмерского короля.
Декор поближе. Небесные киннары поддерживают крышу дворца.
Серебряная пагода.
Изначально пагода была построена из дерева и была меньших размеров. Во времена правления Сианука, в 60-х годах, пагоду расширили, часть фасада перестроили, применяя итальянский мрамор, а пол внутри пагоды полностью инкрустировали серебряными плитками ручной работы. Пагоду стали называть Серебряной.
У пагоды есть и другое название, более давнее — Храм Изумрудного Будды. Это название пошло от уникальной статуи Будды, изготовленной из чистого кристалла баккара и установленной в храме.
В храме хранятся и другие национальные сокровища, среди которых особо выделяется золотая статуя Будды в натуральную величину, сделанная из чистого золота и украшенная 9584 бриллиантами, самый большой из которых весит 25 карат.
Статуя короля Нородому.
Статуя была подарена кхмерскому королю Наполеоном III. Изначально это был памятник тому же Наполеону III, но потом одну голову заменили на другую, получился памятник Нородому.
…Есть в графском парке темный пруд, там лилии цветут…
Лотосы. Здесь лотосы растут в многочисленных круглых вазах с водой. Глядя на эту красоту, первое, что приходит в голову это то, что лотосы – цветы редкие, мало где ими можно полюбоваться, раз они высажены в королевском саду. Мы очень удивились, когда по дороге в Сием Рип, наблюдая из окошка автобуса за болотистыми окрестностями, мы увидели лотосы повсюду — даже в мало-мальской луже, где почти уже высохла вода, почти из грязи невозмутимо торчали их нежнейшие бутоны необыкновенной красоты.
Ступы.
На первом плане — Кантха Боптха, ступа дочери короля Народома Сианука. На втором — короля Сурамарита.
Ступы здесь что-то вроде наших надгробных памятников. В буддизме принято тело после смерти кремировать и, если человек выдающийся, хранить его прах в ступе.
Старинная королевская повозка в виде ладьи на колесах.
И напоследок. Великолепная территория Королевского дворца с красивыми газонами и причудливо постриженными деревьями. Наследие французов. Воссоздав дворец по всем канонам кхмерской архитектуры, над садами они поработали на французский лад. Славно получилось.
Вот это дворец! Что-то напоминает королевский дворец в Банкоке и дворцовый комплекс в Пекине (Гугун)
ООООчень красиво! Завидую!
На счет тайцев, все верно. До образования своего первого государства тайцы полностью входили в состав кхмерской империи, а когда империя пала стали наследниками ее культуры. Тайская архитектура пошла от кхмерской. Причем, заметь, даже уже после падения Ангкора кхмеры строят в Пномпене свой новый дворец в XV веке, а тайцы только в XVIII и, наверняка, что-нибудь заимствуют. Хотя строят роскошнее, потому что на тот момент они богаче кхмеров. И дворец их стоит по сей день, а кхмерам пришлось его строить еще раз, уже в XIX веке.
А на счет китайцев, не знаю. Буддизм, наверное…
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